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A Stay Well Spent: A French Alps Itinerary, Second Edition

A skier in a red jacket descends a snowy mountain slope with towering, snow-covered peaks in the background under a blue sky with clouds.

At the foot of Mont Blanc, Les Houches moves at a slower pace, with Chamonix just a short distance away.

Date posted: 19 August 2026, 4:30pm

Article length: 6 minutes

A Sense of Place: Les Houches Overview & What to Expect

Les Houches sits at the lower end of the Mont Blanc valley, just beyond Chamonix, offering a quieter perspective framed by forested slopes and open views towards Mont Blanc.

In winter, it forms part of the wider Chamonix ski area, while in summer the landscape opens into walking routes and viewpoints across the valley. Chamonix remains close by when you want variety, but Les Houches is where the day naturally settles. This itinerary follows that rhythm from morning to evening.

Wooden deck with a table and flowers overlooks a scenic mountain landscape under a clear blue sky.

Mountain views from

Chalet Foxden

Starting the Day: Coffee and Breakfast Near the Centre

Your morning begins in Chamonix, where cafés and bakeries open early along the pedestrian streets and the day builds gradually around you. Early light settles across the valley, locals move through the town, and the first skiers begin to make their way towards the lifts.

Start with something simple from Boulangerie Au Mont Chou or Le Fournil Chamoniard, both reliable for freshly baked bread and pastries. If you prefer to sit down, Café Tartine offers a relaxed breakfast setting in the centre, while Shoukâ and Elevation 1904 provide a quieter start, close to the main lift access.

The valley from above

Morning on the Mountain: Winter Skiing and Summer Hiking

After breakfast, the lifts are within easy reach. In winter, the Les Houches ski area spreads across the Bellevue and Prarion sectors, with terrain that adapts well to different levels. If you are a beginner or intermediate, the tree-lined slopes above the village provide a more contained and comfortable setting, with long, wide runs that allow you to build confidence without feeling rushed. If you are looking for a challenge, the Kandahar run, one of the most historic downhill courses in the Alps, offers a steeper and more technical descent.

In the warmer months, the lifts open onto a network of walking routes that reveal the valley at a slower pace. From the top of the Prarion lift, trails lead across open alpine terrain with uninterrupted views towards Mont Blanc. For an accessible walk, the paths around Lac des Chavants move gently between forest and meadow. For a more rewarding outing, the route towards Col de Voza passes through alpine pastures and mountain trails, revealing sweeping panoramas across the Mont Blanc massif.

Ski lift carrying skiers up a snow-covered mountain with clear blue sky above.

A winter morning on the slopes

A Midday Stop: Where to Eat Lunch

By midday, the rhythm of the morning begins to soften. What starts as a brief stop often becomes something more, as the pace of the day gives way to something more relaxed.

In winter, several mountain restaurants offer a natural place to pause. The Refuge du Montenvers, set at altitude, offers a more traditional setting where the view becomes part of the experience. In summer, returning closer to the valley allows for a quieter alternative. In Les Houches, La Table des Granges offers a terrace facing Mont Blanc, where lunch can extend without much intention.

Refuge du Montenvers

Cuisine: Traditional mountain cuisine
Address: Impasse du Montenvers, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website

La Table des Granges

Cuisine: French alpine, seasonal
Address: 1000 Rte des Chavants, 74310 Les Houches, France
Website

People dining in a wooden restaurant with large windows, offering a view of mountains under a clear blue sky.

Lunch with a view at Refuge du Montenvers

A Restful Afternoon: Back to Your Base

After a morning on the mountain and a good lunch, the afternoon is a good time to step away from movement and allow the day to slow. This is where Les Houches comes into its own.

Many of our chalets and apartments in the area offer a setting that encourages this shift. Some include saunas and hammams, while others open onto wide views of the surrounding peaks. After time at altitude, there is something to be said for stepping away from the busier areas and returning to a quieter place at the end of the day.

Our concierge team can shape the rest of your day around you. A massage therapist can come directly to you to help you unwind after the day, and if heading out for dinner feels like too much, a private chef can take over your kitchen for a tailored evening. The rest is yours to enjoy, our team is here to follow your lead.

For those who prefer to stay out a little longer, Chamonix offers a different pace. As the lifts begin to close, the atmosphere shifts, and places like La Folie Douce bring a more social energy, where the afternoon carries on a little longer before easing into the evening.

Wooden sauna interior with warm lighting, a bench, a bucket with a ladle, and a towel placed on the backrest.

Relax in the Les Mazots de Kayla residence

As the Sun Sets: Where to Go for Dinner

As the day turns to evening, Chamonix becomes more animated. The restaurants in the centre begin to fill, and the focus shifts naturally from the slopes to the table.

For a more traditional and considered setting, La Rose du Pont and Chez Joséphine offer a refined take on French cuisine, where the atmosphere feels as carefully composed as the menu itself. For those drawn to Alpine flavours, La Maison Carrier remains a strong reference, with a more grounded, regional approach.

If you are looking for something slightly different, Le Cap-Horn offers a broader interpretation, with seafood and subtle Asian influences in a more lively setting, while Le Monchu provides a more familiar option for Savoyard dishes and fondue, a dependable way to end the day.

La Rose du Pont

Cuisine: French, seasonal, classic
Address: 43 Pl. Balmat, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website & Instagram

Josephine Restaurant

Cuisine: French, traditional, refined
Address: 76 Av. Michel Croz, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website & Instagram

La Maison Carrier

Cuisine: Alpine, traditional
Address: 44 Rte du Bouchet, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website

Restaurant Le Cap-Horn

Cuisine: French with Asian influences, seafood-focused
Address: 74 Rue des Moulins, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website

Le Monchu

Cuisine: Savoyard, fondue
Address: 1 Rue du Lyret, 74400 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, France
Website & Instagram

Cozy rustic restaurant interior with wooden tables, chairs adorned with fur, set dining tables, and warm lighting.

Dinner at Le Monchu

Before You Go: Getting Around and Final Thoughts

Les Houches and Chamonix are well connected by local train and bus services, making it easy to move between the two without relying on a car. In both winter and summer, the transport network allows you to access lifts, trails, and neighbouring areas with minimal planning.

This itinerary is one way to spend a day centred around Les Houches, with Chamonix as a complement rather than the focus. The balance between the two defines the experience: movement and stillness, energy and calm.

If you are planning a stay, choosing where to base yourself will shape how your time unfolds. Les Houches offers space and a quieter pace, while Chamonix provides variety just moments away. Together, they offer a setting where the day is not rushed, but well spent.